Conservation of cosmetics

Conservation of cosmetics

When preparing any hygienic, care, decorative or fragrant cosmetic composition, it is essential to keep in mind hygiene in the manufacturing procedure.
  • wash your hands thoroughly and sanitize the work surface before you start preparing the cosmetic; minimize contact of hands with the ingredients
  • sanitize utensils and containers before use, details in the General safety guidelines

1. ANHYDRICAL COMPOSITIONS (not containing water) or containing a very small amount of water - such as body oils, oily creams, oily serums, facial, massage and body oils, ointments and conditioners, solid deodorants, solid or oily makeup preparations, it is recommended to be stabilized with antioxidants:

  • Vitamin E is a potent antioxidant agent, which is used in the usual dosage of 0.2% to 0.5% - we recommend this ingredient as an addition to anhydrous preparations and also for the stabilization of vegetable oils sensitive to oxidation (rancidity)
  • The antioxidant rosemary extract protects the oils against rancidity, it is recommended as an addition to vegetable oils, anhydrous preparations and compositions containing a fatty phase. Typical dosage 0.3%
  • Rosemary, tea tree, oregano or palmarosa essential oils - or a combination of these - have antioxidant, antibacterial and antifungal properties, but other essential oils that may be added to the composition must be taken into account when including them. It should not be neglected that they are not suitable for every preparation and their smell is strong, therefore they can be used only occasionally, for an extra antioxidant effect.

2. AQUEOUS COMPOSITIONS - such as emulsified lotions and creams, water-containing serums, biphasic preparations, liquid make-up products, aqueous toners and make-up removers, gels, cleansing compositions (shower gel, shampoo, cleanser) - need conservation. These preparations are very sensitive to infestation with bacteria, molds and fungi. Preservation is not optional, it is mandatory. Some of these can be stored in the refrigerator for a few days. Preservatives currently available in the Elemental offer:

  • Grapefruit seed extract - broad-spectrum antifungal and antibacterial agent. It is a natural preservative, works in a wide pH range but is incompatible with xanthan gum, green tea extract, natural salicylic acid, and some formulas that contain lower percentages of emulsifiers. Typical dosage 0.6%.
  • Cosgard - synthetic preservative approved by Ecocert for organic cosmetics, with a wide range of action, effective between 3 < pH < 8. Compatible with all the ingredients in the Elemental offer. Typical dosage 0.6% - 0.8%.
  • Fragard - aromatic antimicrobial agent, effective between 4 < pH < 9, recommended for compositions prepared by emulsification or containing water. Not suitable for gels, exclusively aqueous solutions, biphasic preparations. Typical dosage 0.6%.
  • Dermosoft Complex - a multifunctional ingredient that can be used to preserve compositions that also contain water. It is effective only in compositions with a pH of up to 5.5. Indicative dosage 2.5-4%.

Dosage in a higher percentage than recommended does not automatically increase the shelf life of the compositions!

What does "1-3 months" mean? The shelf life varies depending on the ingredients of the composition: if oxidation-sensitive and easily degradable active oils are used or are sensitive to microbiological pollution, then the period in which the preparation can be used safely is 1 month after preparation. The shelf life is slightly extended by the type of container: the airless or contactless type better preserve the composition of microbial infestation and oxidation. Matte or dark containers also add to the freshness.

For all preservatives, but especially for the synthetic one - Cosgard - we recommend that a tolerance test be performed beforehand by people who are prone to irritation. Details of the test procedure can be found in the product sheet.

Warning! The MAYAM Grapefruit seed extract differs in composition from most extracts sold in health stores or pharmacies. It has a high concentration, is designed and is used only for the preservation of cosmetics.

What happens if a cosmetic preparation (containing water) is not preserved? Microbes can cause the ingredients to separate, accelerate the rancidity of oils and butters, cause an unpleasant odor, and change the color of the composition. Contaminated products can be dangerous for the skin, starting with causing irritation, eczema, itching and infections.

This formula was developed by Elemental's qualified staff. The recipes are intended to exemplify the use of products marketed by Elemental and are believed to be accurate, however, Elemental assumes no liability or risk associated with the use of its products for the preparation and evaluation of the recipe as the conditions of preparation and use are beyond its control. The Elemental customer must ensure that the reproduction of the formulation does not infringe any intellectual property rights and that it complies with the specific rules and regulations in force. The person who prepares the recipe must refer to the safety data sheets to ensure the safe handling of all raw materials and bears full responsibility for ensuring the safe and correct use and storage of all materials procured and used. Assessments of the safety, stability, regulatory compliance and suitability of this recipe, methods and the finished product are the sole responsibility of the user and/or the legal entity placing the product on the market. Elemental is not liable for any damages resulting from the use of this information, and assumes no responsibility for misuse of selected materials, formula or method, in whole or in part.

Posted on 07/20/2015 Beginner's guide

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