Rejuvenating, anti-stain serum, with kojic acid

Rejuvenating, anti-stain serum, with kojic acid

Formula: KA5518

Phase Ingredients % Quantity for ~30 ml
A flat water or distilled water 73,2 22 gr
A niacinamide 2 0,6 gr
A kojic acid 1 0,3 gr
A hyaluronic acid HMW 1 0,3 gr
B emulsifier Alfa 6 1,8 gr
B white lily oil 10 3 gr
B cucumber seed oil 5 1,5 gr
B vitamin A 0,5 4 drops
B vitamin E 0,5 4 drops
B natural chelator 0,2 2 drops
C fragard 0,6 6 drops

Sanitize the dedicated containers and utensils you will work with, details in the general safety guidelines.

Preparation method:

Phase A preparation:
The flat water, niacinamide and kojic acid are added to a glass. Mix well, then sprinkle with hyaluronic acid and mix vigorously for about 2 minutes to disperse the lumps as well as possible.
The gel formed is left to rest until phase B is prepared.

Phase B preparation:
Put the emulsifier in a bowl and mix for approximately 20 seconds with the mini whisk, until it becomes slightly whitish. Add 4-5 drops of lily oil and mix vigorously, then, as in the preparation of a mayonnaise, add the rest of the oil and the other ingredients from phase B in small amounts, gradually, while mixing continuously. The composition hardens and in no case liquefies! The procedure can take approximately 5 minutes.

Mix phase A and gradually add over phase B, stirring thoroughly. At the end, add the phase C preservative and mix well.
The serum thus obtained is transferred to the dedicated container and left to rest until the next day. pH: ~6

A semi-fluid composition with a pleasant texture and with a complex formula, suitable for any skin type, useful for alleviating sun spots, age or post-inflammatory spots (scars, acne) and skin rejuvenation.
The formula aims to even out skin color and brighten the skin, has a moisturizing, anti-aging and skin regenerating effect.
It can be applied on the face in the evening, after cleansing (and possibly after using a toner) the skin.
If the care routine also involves chemical exfoliation (with AHA/BHA), then the serum is applied 10-15 minutes after exfoliation.
The serum is indicated to be used as a treatment, for a period of 1-2 months, after which there is a break of 1-2 months. During the treatment it is necessary to photoprotect the skin during the day.

Options and explanations:

  • the formula contains a fairly high percentage of kojic acid, so the serum will be used as a treatment; the percentage of kojic acid can be reduced to approximately 0.5% in which case the serum can be used for a longer period, as needed
  • use only the HMW type of hyaluronic acid because the LMW type does not form a gel, thus the emulsion can be destabilized
  • instead of fragard you can use cosgard (same amount)
  • instead of cucumber seed oil - chosen especially for its antioxidant and antiradical effect - you can use another vegetable oil, even one sensitive to heating, or you can increase the percentage of white lily oil accordingly
  • emulsifier Alfa cannot be replaced with another emulsifier
  • part of the flat water can be replaced with a percentage of floral water, selected according to its properties and skin type
  • Difficulty: beginner/advanced/experienced
  • Utensils: precision scale, mini mixer, a bowl, mini whisk, a Berzelius glass
  • Recommended container: Aurora airless bottle, 30 ml
  • Shelf life: 3 months, kept in a cool place, away from light and moisture

This formula was developed by Elemental's qualified staff. The recipes are intended to exemplify the use of products marketed by Elemental and are believed to be accurate, however, Elemental assumes no liability or risk associated with the use of its products for the preparation and evaluation of the recipe as the conditions of preparation and use are beyond its control. The Elemental customer must ensure that the reproduction of the formulation does not infringe any intellectual property rights and that it complies with the specific rules and regulations in force. The person who prepares the recipe must refer to the safety data sheets to ensure the safe handling of all raw materials and bears full responsibility for ensuring the safe and correct use and storage of all materials procured and used. Assessments of the safety, stability, regulatory compliance and suitability of this recipe, methods and the finished product are the sole responsibility of the user and/or the legal entity placing the product on the market. Elemental is not liable for any damages resulting from the use of this information, and assumes no responsibility for misuse of selected materials, formula or method, in whole or in part.

Posted on 09/07/2015 Skin Care recipes, Serums, Facial oils

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