Cream foundation

Cream foundation

Formula: 11308

Phase Ingredients for ~ 50 ml % Quantity
A1 titanium paste 17 8,5 gr
A1 yellow 09 oxide, cosmetic pigment 0,6 0,3 gr (2 x DASH spoon)
A1 brown 23 oxide, cosmetic pigment 0,2 0,1 gr (2 x SMIDGEN spoon)
A2 kukui oil 35 17,5 gr
A2 shea butter 10 5 gr
A2 emulsifying olive wax 8 4 gr
A2 beeswax 3 1,5 gr
B flat mineral water 24,6 12,3 gr
C natural cosmetic fragrance oil Fruit de Juin 1 15 drops
C cosgard preservative 0,6 10 drops

Sanitize the dedicated containers and utensils you will work with, details in the general safety guidelines.

Add the ingredients of phase A1 to a heat-resistant glass and mix well. Gradually add the kukui oil and mix thoroughly until the composition becomes uniform. Add the rest of the ingredients from phase A2.
Add the water from phase B to another heat-resistant glass.

Phases A and B are placed in a water bath, heating them to 70°C, after which they are removed from the heat. During heating, phase A is often mixed.
Transfer phase B over phase A in a single motion and start mixing immediately, which should last at least 3 minutes. Bubbles can be seen, and a whitish layer that persists on the surface is normal. Place the glass over a bowl of cold water and continue mixing. If the mixer does not cope, continue the homogenization manually with a whisk or a teaspoon, for approximately 3 more minutes. The composition must be cooled to at least body temperature and must have a soft, uniform texture.

Finally, the ingredients of phase C will be added one by one, with mixing after each one. The cream thus prepared is transferred to the dedicated container. The consistency will be final on the next day. pH: ~ 5.5-6

The result is a cream foundation with a fairly full coverage, especially suitable for dry skin but can also be used on normal skin.

Correct application of a foundations is important: on a clean and hydrated face, apply with your finger or with a special sponge (damp) from top to bottom, from the center of the face to the outside by smoothing and tapping movements, including at the base of the hair. The application is not limited to the face, it must be lowered on the neck and, if necessary, on the neckline. A finishing powder can be applied, being useful if makeup follows. Do not apply in a thick layer, do not massage/rub into the skin. 

The shade is light with a neutral undertone. In order to obtain a light-medium shade, the amount of pigments will be supplemented by up to 25%, for a medium shade by 50%. To obtain a cold undertone, the yellow pigment will be slightly reduced, increasing the amount of brown pigment; for warm undertone, vice versa.

Options and explanations:

  • the fragrance oil can be replaced with another one or with an essential oil chosen according to preferences; it can even be removed from the recipe
  • cosgard can be replaced with grapefruit seed extract or fragard (same amount)
  • floral water can be used instead of flat water
  • shea butter can be replaced with mango or murumuru butter
  • kukui oil is also chosen for its light non-greasy texture, but can be replaced with olive squalane or watermelon, jojoba or caprilis oil
  • the emulsifier cannot be replaced with another one, beeswax is needed to provide stability to the cream, it also contributes to the coverage strength

...

  • Difficulty: beginner/advanced/experienced
  • Utensils: precision scale, 2 Berzelius beakers, mini mixer, thermometer, optional: stainless steel measuring spoon set
  • Recommended container: Vogue glass bottle with lotion pump Gp
  • Shelf-life: 3 months - prepared in optimal conditions of hygiene, kept in a cool place

This formula was developed by Elemental's qualified staff. The recipes are intended to exemplify the use of products marketed by Elemental and are believed to be accurate, however, Elemental assumes no liability or risk associated with the use of its products for the preparation and evaluation of the recipe as the conditions of preparation and use are beyond its control. The Elemental customer must ensure that the reproduction of the formulation does not infringe any intellectual property rights and that it complies with the specific rules and regulations in force. The person who prepares the recipe must refer to the safety data sheets to ensure the safe handling of all raw materials and bears full responsibility for ensuring the safe and correct use and storage of all materials procured and used. Assessments of the safety, stability, regulatory compliance and suitability of this recipe, methods and the finished product are the sole responsibility of the user and/or the legal entity placing the product on the market. Elemental is not liable for any damages resulting from the use of this information, and assumes no responsibility for misuse of selected materials, formula or method, in whole or in part.

Posted on 07/20/2015 Makeup recipes, Foundations, Powders 0

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