Myrrh & Cucumber, moisturizing & repairing cream

Formula: 10239 - version A (with emulsifier Liqua)

Phase Ingredients for ~40 ml % Quantity
A cucumber seed oil 15 5,25 gr
A Liqua emulsifier 3 1,05 gr
A co-emulsifier Glycemul 3 1,05 gr
B witch hazel water 71,75 25,1 gr
B cucumber extract 5 1,75 gr
C xanthan gum 0,15 0,06 gr
D myrrh essential oil 0,3 0,1 gr
D styrax resinoid 0,2 0,07 gr
D bamboo powder 0,5 0,18 gr
D vitamin E 0,5 0,18 gr
D cosgard preservative 0,6 0,21 gr

Sanitize the dedicated containers and utensils you will work with, details in the general safety guidelines.

Preparation method:

Add the phase A ingredients to a heat-resistant glass. Add the phase B ingredients, one by one, to another heat-resistant beaker.
Both glasses are placed in a water bath, stirring occasionally. When both phases have reached a temperature of 75°C, remove from the heat.
Pour phase B over phase A and mix (for 1 minute with the new mixer, for 3 minutes with the old mixer).
Sprinkle xanthan gum over the composition and mix for a few seconds. Place the glass in a bowl of cold water to accelerate cooling process, and continue to mix (for 1 minute with the new mixer, for 3 minutes with the old mixer).
Then add the ingredients of phase D and mix thoroughly.
The cream thus obtained is transferred to the dedicated container. The consistency of the cream will be finalized the next day. pH: ~6

The result is a gentle, light and fluid cream with a pleasant and sophisticated men's scent. It is quickly absorbed and leaves the skin hydrated, well-groomed. It can be applied daily, after sanitizing the skin or after shaving. It is formulated so that due to the moisturizing, repairing, regenerating, healing and balancing of sebum secretion ingredients, it can be used as a day cream or as an aftershave alike.

Options:

  • instead of cucumber seed oil, another vegetable oil can be used, chosen according to preferences and its properties
  • for extra hydration, 2% cosmetic urea can be included in the formula, in phase B, decreasing the amount of witch hazel water accordingly
  • if used mainly as an aftershave, the cream can be enriched with soothing active ingredients: 3-4 drops of bisabolol or chamomile CO2 extract
  • about 15-20% of the witch hazel water can be replaced with aloe vera gel
  • instead of the phase C essences recommended in the recipe, various other essential oils can be used, depending on preferences and properties; instead of the styrax resinoid you can use for example bergamot, fragonia, cistus, petitgrain or may chang essential oil


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Formula: 10239 - version B (with emulsifier Fluida)

Phase Ingredients for ~40 ml % Quantity
A cucumber seed oil 17 5,95 gr
A co-emulsifier Glycemul 3 1,05 gr
B witch hazel water 71,75 25,1 gr
B emulsifier Fluida 1 0,35 gr
B cucumber extract 5 1,75 gr
C xanthan gum 0,15 0,06 gr
C myrrh essential oil 0,3 4 drops
C styrax resinoid 0,2 2 drops
C bamboo powder 0,5 0,18 gr
C vitamin E 0,5 5 drops
C cosgard preservative 0,6 7 drops

Sanitize the dedicated containers and utensils you will work with, details in the general safety guidelines.

Preparation method:
Add the ingredients of phases A and B to two separate Berzelius beakers. Place both glasses in a water bath and heat to 75°C, stirring each in the meantime. Remove from the heat when both phases have reached the desired temperature.

The phases are combined as follows: phase A is slowly poured over phase B, while mixing. Continue to mix for 3 minutes. To accelerate the cooling process, place the beaker in a bowl of cold water and continue to mix for 3 more minutes.

To the composition cooled to body temperature are added the ingredients of phase C, one by one, with thorough mixing after each. Let the composition rest for 10 minutes, then mix again for about 2 minutes. The cream thus prepared is transferred to the dedicated container. The consistency of the cream will be finalized the next day. pH: 5.5-6

The result is a gentle, light and fluid cream with a pleasant and sophisticated men's scent. It is quickly absorbed and leaves the skin hydrated, well-groomed. It can be applied daily, after sanitizing the skin or after shaving. It is formulated so that due to the moisturizing, repairing, regenerating, healing and balancing of sebum secretion ingredients, it can be used as a day cream or as an aftershave alike.

Options:

  • instead of cucumber seed oil, another vegetable oil can be used, chosen according to preferences and its properties
  • for extra hydration, 2% cosmetic urea can be included in the formula, in phase B, decreasing the amount of witch hazel water accordingly
  • if used mainly as an aftershave, the cream can be enriched with soothing active ingredients: 3-4 drops of bisabolol or chamomile CO2 extract
  • about 15-20% of the witch hazel water can be replaced with aloe vera gel
  • instead of the phase C essences recommended in the recipe, various other essential oils can be used, depending on preferences and properties; instead of the styrax resinoid you can use for example bergamot, fragonia, cistus, petitgrain or may chang essential oil

...

  • Difficulty: beginner/advanced/experienced
  • Utensils: precision scale, 2 Berzelius beakers, mini mixer, thermometer
  • Recommended container: Oly airless bottle, 40 ml
  • Shelf-life: 3 months - prepared in optimal conditions of hygiene, kept in a cool place
Posted on 09/20/2016 Men's grooming recipes 0

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