Toning Shampoo, Keratin & Caffeine

Toning Shampoo, Keratin & Caffeine

Formula: 52371

Phase Ingredients for ~250 ml (270 gr) % Quantity
A sodium coco-sulfate 15 40,5 gr
A sodium cocoyl isethionate 5 13,5 gr
A Cocamidopropyl betaine, powder 2,5 6,8 gr
A flat water 62,4 172* gr
B caffeine 1 2,7 gr
B glycerin 8 21,6 gr
C vege-keratin 3 8,1 gr 
C lemongrass essential oil 0,4 1,1 gr (~36 drops)
C cedarwood atlas essential oil 0,6 1,6 gr (~54 drops)
C lactic acid 0,3 0,8 gr
C fine salt 1,2 3,25 gr
C cosgard 0,6 1,6 gr (~54 drops)

Sanitize the dedicated containers and utensils you will work with, details in the general safety guidelines.

* we add a little more water than the quantity based on the calculated percentage, because during heating some of the water will evaporate

Preparation method:
In a large Berzelius beaker add the phase A surfactants, mix slowly and then add the water. Mix well until the larger lumps disperse. The glass is placed in a water bath until the surfactants have completely melted. Stir often, slowly, patiently. The procedure will take approximately 10 minutes.

After melting the surfactants, phase A is removed from the heat and allowed to cool slightly, approximately 2 minutes.
Add the ingredients from phase B: first the caffeine, mixing well until completely dissolved, and if there are still lumps from the surfactants, they can be crushed with the back of the teaspoon against the wall of the glass; then glycerin is added. Allow the composition to cool to body temperature, stirring occasionally.

At the end, add the ingredients from phase C, with slow and thorough mixing after each one; insist on dissolving the salt before adding the preservative.
The shampoo thus prepared is transferred to the dedicated bottle; the formed foam will recede the next day. pH: ~5-5,5

A dense shampoo, with very good foaming, which cleanses and purifies the scalp (surfactants and essential oils), tones and stimulates the hair roots (caffeine), cares for and strengthens the hair (keratin). It is intended especially for those who have hair problems, hair loss, alopecia, greasy hair and scalp.
It is used like a regular shampoo and it is recommended to leave it on the hair and scalp for at least 2 minutes, ideally 4-5 minutes, when washing. 

Options and explanations:

  • instead of the proposed essential oils, you can use other essential oils (not more than 1% in total) that have benefits for the scalp, for example: rosemary, grapefruit, palmarosa, laurel, lime, myrtle, petitgrain, clary sage; the shampoo may look slightly different from the one in the photo, depending on the essential oils used
  • if you work with the liquid version of Cocamidopropyl betainein, the percentages will change as follows: 7.5% surfactant + 57.4% water
  • we recommend using regular salt or Himalayan salt, iodine free and without anti-caking agents or other additives
  • it is important that the pH of this shampoo be between 5 and 5.5, because caffeine can crystallize at a higher pH, so at the end of the preparation the pH will be measured and adjusted with a little lactic acid or baking soda, if necessary


Phase A completed, ready to add Phase B ingredients:


This is what the freshly prepared shampoo looks like:


  • Difficulty: beginner/advanced/experienced
  • Utensils: precision scale, a big Berzelius beaker, teaspoons/spatulas, pH measuring strip, mask, gloves
  • Recommended container: Optima or Cristal bottle, 250 ml with disc-top cap
  • Shelf-life: 3 months - prepared in optimal conditions of hygiene, stored in a cool place