|Phase||Ingredients for ~30 ml||%||Quantity|
|A||vegetable silicone||10||3 gr|
|A||camellia oil||5||1,5 gr|
|A||titanium dioxide||4||1,2 gr|
|A||zinc oxide||1||0,3 gr|
|A||yellow 09 oxide, cosmetic pigment||0,5||0,15 gr (5 x DROP)|
|A||brown 23 oxide, cosmetic pigment||0,1||0,03 gr (1 x DROP)|
|A||co-emulsifier Glycemul||1||0,3 gr|
|A||emulsifier Olliva||4||1,2 gr|
|B||flat mineral water||55,5||16,6 gr|
|B||mint water||15||4,5 gr|
|C||rice powder||2||0,6 gr|
|C||beige 87 mica, cosmetic pigment||1||0,3 gr (1 x TAD + 1 x DASH)|
|C||hyaluronic acid (hmw or lmw)||0,3||0,1 gr|
Sanitize the dedicated containers and utensils you will work with, details in the general safety guidelines.
Phase A and B ingredients are added, in the given order, to two separate heat-resistant containers. Both containers are placed in a water bath, to be heated to 70°C, stirring occasionally. When both phases have reached the right temperature, remove from the water bath.
Add the contents of phase B over phase A and mix for 3 minutes. The composition may temporarily look like a more aerated gel but the texture of the emulsion will adjust during cooling. To accelerate the cooling process, place the composition in a bowl of cold water and continue stirring for another 3 minutes.
Let the composition cool to body temperature and add the ingredients of phase C, one by one, with thorough mixing after each. The cream is left to rest for about 10 minutes, after which it is mixed by hand thoroughly, in order to obtain a homogeneous composition.
The cream thus obtained is transferred to the dedicated container. pH: ~ 6
The result is a complex "color correction" cream with a unifying, tinting, optical illuminating, protective, anti-aging and moisturizing effect. It is a light, non-greasy cream, pleasant to wear throughout the day. It can replace foundation, especially during the summer. It is an unscented cream, with a relatively neutral fine smell, with a light to medium coverage.
Apply a moderate amount of cream with your fingers and spread it smoothly all over the face, including the eyelids, and at the end work with tapping movements. It can also be applied on the neck. An additional amount can be applied later in the area of the more obvious dark circles or spots, by tapping. The combination of ingredients ensures a sufficient time of distribution of the cream on the skin.
The color is light, a shade with a natural look, neutral undertone. To obtain a cold undertone (pink shade), the amount of yellow pigment will be reduced to 0.09 gr = 3 x DROP spoons; to obtain a warm undertone (yellowish shade) the amount of yellow pigment will be increased to 0.21 gr = 7 x DROP spoons. To darken the shade of the cream, increase the amount of pigments proportionally by one third per shade. These adjustments do not require modification of other ingredients.
Note: the pigments can be added later, at the end of the cream preparation, but their dispersion is more difficult and requires thorough mixing; if you opt for the addition of pigments at the end, add little by little, mix well and test the obtained shade on the skin.
Options and explanations: