CC Cream, oily skin

CC Cream, oily skin

Formula: MA2256

Phase Ingredients for ~30 ml % Quantity
A coco-silicone 10 3 gr
A camellia oil 5 1,5 gr
A titanium dioxide 4 1,2 gr
A zinc oxide 1 0,3 gr
A yellow 09 oxide, cosmetic pigment 0,5 0,15 gr (5 x DROP spoon)
A brown 23 oxide, cosmetic pigment 0,1 0,03 gr (1 x DROP spoon)
A co-emulsifier Glycemul 1 0,3 gr
A emulsifier Olliva 4 1,2 gr
B flat mineral water 55,5 16,6 gr
B peppermint water 15 4,5 gr
C rice powder 2 0,6 gr
C beige 87 mica, cosmetic pigment 1 0,3 gr (1 x TAD + 1 x DASH spoon)
C hyaluronic acid (hmw or lmw) 0,3 0,1 gr
C cosgard 0,6 6 drops

Sanitize the dedicated containers and utensils you will work with, details in the general safety guidelines.

Preparation method:
Phase A and B ingredients are added, in the given order, to two separate heat-resistant containers. Both containers are placed in a water bath, to be heated to 70°C, stirring occasionally. When both phases have reached the right temperature, remove from the water bath.

Add the contents of phase B over phase A and mix for 3 minutes. The composition may temporarily look like a more aerated gel but the texture of the emulsion will adjust during cooling. To accelerate the cooling process, place the composition in a bowl of cold water and continue stirring for 3 more minutes.

Let the composition cool to body temperature and add the ingredients of phase C, one by one, thoroughly mixing after each. The cream is left to rest for about 10 minutes, after which it is mixed by hand thoroughly, in order to obtain a homogeneous composition.

The cream thus obtained is transferred to the dedicated container. pH: ~ 6

The result is a complex "color correction" cream with a unifying, tinting, illuminating, protective, anti-aging and moisturizing effect. It is a light, non-greasy cream, pleasant to wear throughout the day. It can replace foundation, especially during the summer. It is an unscented cream, with a relatively neutral fine smell, with a light to medium coverage.

Apply a moderate amount of cream with your fingers and spread it smoothly all over the face, including the eyelids, and at the end work with tapping movements. It can also be applied on the neck. An additional amount can be applied in areas with more visible dark circles or spots, by tapping. The combination of ingredients ensures a sufficient time of distribution of the cream on the skin.

The color is light, a shade with a natural look, neutral undertone. To obtain a cold undertone (pink shade), the amount of yellow pigment will be reduced to 0.09 gr = 3 x DROP spoons; to obtain a warm undertone (yellowish shade) the amount of yellow pigment will be increased to 0.21 gr = 7 x DROP spoons. To darken the shade of the cream, increase the amount of pigments proportionally by one third per shade. These adjustments do not require modification of other ingredients.

Note: the pigments can be added later, at the end of the cream preparation, but their dispersion is more difficult and requires thorough mixing; if you opt for the addition of pigments at the end, add little by little, mix well and test the obtained shade on the skin.

Options and explanations:

  • instead of camellia oil you can use another vegetable oil, according to your preferences and its properties
  • rosemary or witch hazel water can be used instead of peppermint water; for sensitive skin, linden or melissa water can be used
  • for extra hydration, you can replace 3% of the flat water with glycerin
  • rice powder has a mattifying and sebum-absorbing effect; if the skin has dry areas, rice powder can be removed from the formula and coconut powder can be used instead
  • for a more accurate dispersion of the pigments, those in phase A can be previously homogenized in a mortar, together with the zinc oxide and titanium dioxide
  • we do not recommend replacing the emulsifiers and preservative proposed in the recipe
  • titanium dioxide cannot be replaced with titanium paste; it may be removed from the formula by supplementing the amount of zinc oxide accordingly, but this has a certain influence on the final color of the cream
  • the beige pigment gives an optical lighting effect, pearl particles reflect light and give the skin a satin look

 

  • Difficulty: beginner/advanced/experienced
  • Utensils: precision scale, 2 Berzelius glasses, thermometer, mixer, optional: stainless steel measuring spoon set
  • Recommended container: Aurora airless bottle or Clara/Ambra glass jar - 30 ml
  • Shelf life: 3 months - prepared in optimal hygiene conditions, kept in a cool place
Posted on 07/20/2015 Skin Care recipes, Face creams 0

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