7 in 1 BB cream

Formula: IN3778

Phase Ingredients for ~30 gr % Quantity
A sea buckthorn oil 5 1,5 gr
A white lily oil 5 1,5 gr
A acmella CO2 extract 2 20 drops
A coenzyme Q10 1 10 drops
A emulsifier Alfa 7 2,1 gr
B esseSol 15 4,5 gr
B yellow 09 oxide, cosmetic pigment 0,6 0,18 gr (3 x SMIDGEN spoon)
B brown 23 oxide, cosmetic pigment 0,15 0,05 gr (1½ x DROP spoon)
C neroli water 54,45 16,4 gr
C niacinamide 2 0,6 gr
C xanthan gum 0,2 0,06 gr
D coconut powder 2 0,6 gr
D magnesium stearate 5 1,5 gr
D cosgard 0,6 6 drops

Sanitize the dedicated containers and utensils you will work with, details in the general safety guidelines.

Preparation method:
Preparation of phase A: mix the first 4 ingredients in a glass. The emulsifier is transferred to a bowl, and with the help of a mini whisk it is mixed for 10-20 seconds, to absorb air. It will turn slightly white. Gradually add the mixture of the 4 ingredients, as in the preparation of a mayonnaise. The gel should become opaque and more viscous, in no case should it become liquefied. The procedure takes approximately 5 minutes.

Preparation of phase B: place the pigments in a bowl over which add about half the amount of esseSol and mix thoroughly to disperse the pigments as well as possible. Use the back of a teaspoon to press the composition on the wall of the bowl. After a homogeneous paste is obtained, add the remaining esseSol and mix well.

Preparation of phase C: in a glass mix well the floral water and niacinamide, then sprinkle xanthan gum and mix vigorously until the gum is completely dispersed. The composition is left to rest for a few minutes to form a gel.

Combine phase C with B: add the composition of phase B over the gel and mix well.

Emulsification: the solution resulting from the combination of phase C + B is added over phase A, gradually, with continuous mixing. Homogenize for 1-2 minutes.

Final phase: the resulting composition is completed with the ingredients of phase D, which are added one at a time, in the order given by the recipe with mixing after each. The resulting cream is transferred to the dedicated container. pH: ~ 6.5

The result result is a complex cream with a rich content of active ingredients, generally suitable for any skin type. It has a light texture, is comfortable on the skin, gives a satin finish and has a pleasant fine scent.
Properties: anti-aging, nourishing, moisturizing, antioxidant, slightly sun protective, elasticizing and tensing, illuminating and unifying. 

Options and explanations::

  • neroli water can be replaced with another floral water, depending on preferences and its properties, with the mention that this is the only ingredient that perfumes the cream
  • the shade of the cream on the skin is light-medium. In order to obtain a lighter shade, the amount of pigments will be reduced by up to half, for darker shades their amount will be proportionally supplemented by 40-50% or more. No adjustments to the other ingredients are required. Extra pigments can be added at the end, but require long homogenization to disperse them evenly
  • white lily oil can be replaced with another vegetable oil depending on the skin type, for example for dry skin you can work with argan, rosehip or safflower oil
  • magnesium stearate provides a pleasant feeling on the skin, contributes to the texture and consistency of the cream, therefore we do not recommend replacing or removing it from the formula
  • for dry skin, a slightly more oily cream can be obtained as follows: phase A will be supplemented with + 5% vegetable oil of your choice and + 2% Alfa emulsifier; the percentage of neroli water will be reduced accordingly
  • instead of cosgard you can use fragard (same amount)


  • Difficulty: beginner/advanced/experienced
  • Utensils: precision scale, mini whisk, 2 glasses, 2 bowls, optional: stainless steel measuring spoon set
  • Recommended container: glass bottle Goya with Gp lotion pump
  • Shelf life: 3 months - prepared in optimal hygiene conditions, kept in a cool place
Posted on 07/20/2015 Skin Care recipes, Face creams 0