Sun protection cream, dry/normal skin

Sun protection cream, dry/normal skin

Formula: 43262

Phase Ingredients for ~30 ml % Quantity
A karanja or carrot oil 10 3 gr
A sea buckthorn oil 10 3 gr
A emulsifier Bella 5 1,5 gr
A cetearyl alcohol 2 0,6 gr
B flat mineral water 45,5 13,7 gr
B esseSol 25 7,5 gr
B yellow 09 oxide, cosmetic pigment 0,6 0,18 gr (3 x SMIDGEN spoon)
B brown 23 oxide, cosmetic pigment 0,2 0,06 gr (1 x SMIDGEN spoon)
C xanthan gum 0,2 0,06 gr
C ferulic acid 0,5 0,15 gr
C natural cosmetic fragrance oil Crème Tropicale 0,4 4 drops
C cosgard 0,6 6 drops

Sanitize the dedicated containers and utensils you will work with, details in the general safety guidelines.

Preparation method:
Add the phase A ingredients to a heat-resistant beaker and mix. In another heat-resistant beaker, add the ingredients from phase B, one by one, and mix well after each one. Pre-mix the essesol in the vial before use!
The two phases are placed in a water bath, heated to 75°C, while continuously mixing. When the temperature is reached, remove the beakers from the heat.

Transfer phase A quickly over phase B and start mixing immediately, for about 3 minutes. Avoid the aeration of the composition as much as possible. Towards the end of the 3 minutes, the xanthan gum is sprinkled, without interrupting the mixing.
Place the composition over a bowl of cold water and continue to mix for 3 more minutes.

Let the composition cool to body temperature and add the rest of the phase C ingredients, one at a time, thoroughly mixing after each. The cream thus prepared is transferred to the dedicated container. pH: ~5-5.5

The result is a light cream pleasant to wear, it does not burden the skin but covers it with a thin silky layer. It is applied on the skin after cleansing and toning, distributing it as evenly as possible. Contains mineral sunscreen and antioxidants, provides medium protection from the sun's rays.

The shade of the cream is light, suitable for lighter complexions. For darker shades, increase the amount of pigments (for medium shade: yellow 0.9%, brown 0.3%). The shade can be darkened at the end of the preparation, but it is necessary to disperse the pigments in a small amount of cream and then a thorough homogenization.

Options and explanations:

  • mineral sunscreens, not only esseSol but also any others that do not contain nano-particles, leave a more or less pronounced whitish layer on the skin, thus, the use of pigments for coloring the cream is also indicated
  • the proposed fragrance oil can be replaced with another one or with an essential oil; it can be removed from the recipe if an unscented cream is desired 


  • Difficulty: beginner/advanced/experienced
  • Utensils: precision scale, 2 heat-resistant glasses, mini mixer, thermometer, teaspoons, optional: stainless steel measuring teaspoon set
  • Recommended container: Aurora airless bottle, 30 ml
  • Shelf life: 3 months - prepared in optimal hygiene conditions, kept in a cool place

Posted on 07/20/2015 Skin Care recipes, Face creams 0