Day cream with sun protection, mixed/oily skin

Day cream with sun protection, mixed/oily skin

Formula: AP31372

Phase Ingredients for ~30 ml % Quantity
A jojoba oil 15 4,5 gr
A emulsifier Bella 4 1,2 gr
B flat mineral water 51 15,3 gr
B esseSol, mineral filter 25 7,5 gr
B yellow 09 oxide, cosmetic pigment 0,6 0,18 gr (3 SMIDGEN spoons)
B brown 23 oxide, cosmetic pigment 0,2 0,06 gr (1 SMIDGEN spoon)
C xanthan gum 0,3 0,09 gr
C rice powder 3 0,9 gr
C natural cosmetic fragrance oil Amber 0,3 3 drops
C cosgard 0,6 6 drops

Sanitize the dedicated containers and utensils you will work with, details in the general safety guidelines.

Preparation method:
Add the Phase A ingredients to a heat-resistant beaker and mix. In another heat-resistant beaker, add the ingredients from phase B one at a time and mix well after each one. Pre-mix the esseSol in the vial before dosing!
The two phases are placed in a water bath, heated to 70°C, meanwhile mixed, then removed from the heat. 

Transfer phase A quickly over phase B and start mixing immediately, for about 3 minutes. Avoid aeration of the composition as much as possible. Towards the end of the 3 minutes, the xanthan gum is sprinkled, without interrupting the mixing.
Place the glass over a bowl of cold water and continue stirring for 3 more minutes.

Let the composition cool to body temperature and add the rest of the phase C ingredients, one by one, with thorough mixing after each. The cream thus prepared is transferred to the dedicated container. pH: ~ 6

The result is a light cream with a soft texture. It is finely scented and has a mattifying effect. It is pleasant to wear, lets the skin breathe. It is applied on the skin after cleansing and toning, distributing it as evenly as possible, it is easily absorbed into the skin. Contains mineral sunscreen, provides medium protection from the sun's rays.

The shade of the cream is light, for lighter complexions. For darker shades add a higher amount of pigments (for medium shade: yellow 0.9%, brown 0.3%). The shade can be darkened at the end of the preparation, but it is necessary to disperse the pigments in a small amount of cream and then a thorough homogenization. 

Options and explanations:

  • mineral sunscreens, not only esseSol but also any others that do not contain nano-particles, have a more or less pronounced whitening effect on the skin, thus, the use of pigments is also indicated.
  • for mixed skin with dry areas, approximately 3% glycerin may be included in phase B (decreasing the water accordingly)
  • the proposed fragrance oil can be replaced with another one or with an essential oil; if an unscented cream is desired, it can be removed from the recipe
  • jojoba oil can be replaced with karanja, kukui, macadamia, rice, hazelnut or caprilis oil
  • the formula can also be enriched with antioxidant agents: 1% vitamin C (ascorbyl palmitate) in phase A or 0.3% marigold CO2 extract in phase C


  • Difficulty: beginner/advanced/experienced
  • Utensils: precision scale, 2 heat-resistant glasses, mini mixer, thermometer, teaspoons, optional: stainless steel measuring teaspoon set
  • Recommended container: Aurora airless bottle 30 ml
  • Shelf life: 3 months - prepared in optimal hygiene conditions, kept in a cool place
Posted on 07/20/2015 Skin Care recipes, Face creams 0